BEHIND THE LENS OF 3D DESIGN WITH JULIA KOERNER
Potrait of Julia Koerner 2022
Photographer: Valerie Maltseva
In the world of 3D DESIGN, PROFESSOR AT UCLA AND FOUNDER OF JK3D, JULIA KOERNER, is a name that vibrates the space internationally. Born in Salzburg, Austria, Julia attained master's degrees in Architecture from the University of Applied arts in Vienna and the Architectural Association in London. Her ability to bring innovative, eccentric concepts to life in art and home design vastly differs from many before her.
The award-winning Austrian designer has created a universe of her own with art that individually holds advanced technological craftsmanship of an otherworldly nature. Koerner has transformed design processes in the creative industry through her work. Over the last decade, she has created masterpieces as a collaborator with fashion houses like Chanel, Iris Van Harpen and Swarovski. Koerner also recently achieved ultimate praise as a 2023 Oscar Costume Design winner alongside Hollywood Costume Designer Ruth E. Carter after their first collaboration designing a new 3-D crown and neck piece for Queen Ramonda in the Marvel franchise movie Black Panther. But Koerner’s passion to bridge the connection between fashion and technology has developed long before her time as a student.
How did you pinpoint your passion for technological innovation and the interconnection of fashion & architectural design early on in navigating your career?
I was always interested in both architecture and fashion and was especially fascinated and inspired by the human body and its anatomy. My architecture thesis in 2009 at the University of Applied Arts was about superhuman enticement and I designed a biomechatronic research institute for Manhattan. Thereafter I collaborated with Industrial designer Ross Lovegrove in London and we designed anything from the scale of a perfume bottle to architectural installations. Furthermore I collaborated with Iris van Herpen on some of the first 3D printed dresses for Haute couture. From early on I was able to directly apply my research into emergent technologies and design on realized projects and specialised myself in 3D printing early on in my career. That led to some of the most incredible collaborations such as Chanel and Swarovski.
JK3D: Crystal Lamella
Swarovski 2022
You have established a globally renowned name for yourself in the art of 3D-printing. What project or collaboration have you generated that you consider to be the most impactful and endearing to your ethos as an artist?
I would say this was the collaboration with Ruth E. Carter on the Academy winning costumes for Black Panther and Wakanda Forever. It is one thing to design for exclusive Haute Couture in Paris, but the designs for Hollywood and Marvel Studios had a much broached reach because movies are more accessible. Experiencing the impact of the costumes on afro futurism was a great way of giving our 3D printed designs a broader audience.
Julia Koerner BLACK PANTHER Collaboration with Costume Designer Ruth Carter
2018
Secondly we recently advanced to phase 2 in the invited competition ICON initiative 99. Our design Cactus Homes received an honorable mention and showcased a proposal for 3D printed affordable housing. I am personally really excited for this project because it showcases how our designs can bridge scales from products to fashion to architecture and we are continuing this project now over the next months with potential to being built.
JK3D 2024
Cactus Homes
What were your thoughts on being approached with the opportunity to develop costumes alongside Ruth Carter for a Hollywood entertainment production as preeminent as Marvel’s Black Panther Franchise? How did it feel having your work recognized on such an illustrious scale like the Oscars?
In the first film, when Ruth approached me, I didn’t know it was for Black Panther or Marvel, so I didn’t know what to expect. All I knew was it was for a film which aimed to combine African traditions and technological advancements in a regal attire for a lead character. It was an incredible feeling to have the work being recognized with two academy awards.
Julia Koerner BLACK PANTHER Collaboration with Costume Designer Ruth Carter
2022
As an associate professor at UCLA , what is the main inspirational message you would like the upcoming generation of architectural designers to receive when taking your classes?
To think outside the box. My biggest ambition is to have students push boundaries in their research and comfort zones. I teach them that once they encounter territory with no references and nothing to look at, they are working on something novel and innovative, worth exploring in more depth. Over the past decade, I have taught in the graduate and postgraduate programs at UCLA Architecture and Urban Design (AUD) and taught both core design studios, seminars as well as research studios. Over the past two years, the focus was on “Fit For the Future” research, where students designed 3D printed retrofit building facades with an approach towards sustainable fabrication. The studio has led to some super interesting outcomes.
"Fit for the Future": 3D Printed Sustainable Building Skins 2022-2023
Credit: UCLA academic year
Have you ever experienced intensive setbacks that caused you to question your future or success as an artist?
Yes, the very first setback I had when I was 18 years old and applied for a fashion design studio at the University of Applied Arts which was run by Raf Simons at that time. I didn’t get in and so I decided that I would study architecture instead, which I was equally interested in. Today I know that it was the best choice because I Iearned a skillset I would have never learned would I have studied traditional fashion design.
Throughout my career there were often setbacks and I think almost all projects were challenging because they were always so cutting edge and innovative. Every setback made me stronger, more willing to succeed and not wanting to give up. As Markus Langes-Swarovski once said “Everything you want is on the other side of fear.” I find that quote quite motivating.
How do you believe 3D-printing design has opened up a Pandora’s box to a world of futuristic creation? How do you view your role in shifting the paradigm of sustainable fashion and art?
3D printing design opened so many opportunities in my design techniques and realization of projects: Unlimited design ideas in terms of aesthetics and geometries, working with sustainable materials and manufacturing processes, accessibility to technology to have a much faster feedback loop between the digital and physical space, production local with local sustainable resources, eliminating shipping across continents; I see my role as a thought leader and pioneer in showing casing and teaching what’s possible to change in the industry and how we can rethink fashion, product design and architecture.
All in all, Koerner’s capabilities have allowed fashion to turn over a new tech leaf. One that moves us forward to the projected future of design, where technology and art are intertwined indefinitely.