INSIDE THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR BOTTLENECK: WHERE DIVERSITY IN FASHION LAGS
The ongoing dialogue about the underrepresentation of creative talent from marginalized groups in high fashion has stirred controversy once again. Luxury brands' claims of promoting inclusivity have often been proven superficial, and recent executive appointments underscore this point. Brands like Gucci, Tom Ford, and McQueen have had a revolving door of white male creative directors. In 2023, Seán McGirr was announced as the successor to Sarah Burton, ending her 13-year tenure as creative director at Alexander McQueen. McGirr’s appointment reignited discussions about the lack of diversity in fashion leadership, especially as it confirmed that all creative directors of luxury brands under Kering are now white men with a strikingly similar profile.
Kering, the second-largest fashion conglomerate after LVMH, owns legacy brands like McQueen, Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, and Saint Laurent—none of which are directed by women or people of color. Despite Kering branding itself as an “Equal Opportunity Employer” and “a place for every talent,” these appointments reveal a disconnect between their messaging and actions. Such decisions reflect a troubling disregard for the glaring demographic gaps in the creative sector. The fashion industry appears to be regressing in its commitment to diversity, a matter that should not be taken lightly.
Creative directors serve as figureheads for a brand’s ethos, reflecting its internal culture and values. If inclusivity were truly a priority, it would be evident in the leadership that the public sees. A 2021 New York Times investigation highlighted these contradictions, focusing on 64 prominent womenswear brands that rely on Black cultural influence, yet shy away from addressing systemic racism. Many luxury brands refused to disclose their diversity data, while others didn’t track it at all.
Regardless of how diverse a brand’s candidate pool might be, bias persists in the final decision-making process. It’s not unreasonable to presume that the executives appointing these white male designers are often from similar demographic backgrounds. Expecting a predominantly white male boardroom to select a representative who reflects anything other than their own ideologies seems far-fetched. The irony is that many of these brands owe their success to the very groups they overlook—female consumers, Black trendsetters, and designers who shape the cultural landscape they capitalize on.
The issue of racial and gender exclusivity in fashion goes beyond the surface representation of creative roles—it is entrenched in the decision-making structures behind the scenes. While outward diversity is essential, it is directly shaped by internal leadership. Many brands make lofty promises about hiring more Black designers and models or promoting women into leadership roles, but homogeneity continues to plague the ideologies of luxury houses. A 2022 study published in Nature revealed stark underrepresentation of women and people of color in top creative roles. Among 889 designers surveyed, 49% were women and only 22% were people of color. The persistent elevation of white men to lead these brands speaks louder than any diversity pledge on their websites.
It would be gracious to think that the fashion industry genuinely encourages creatives from all backgrounds to explore their full potential, but fashion’s history is deeply rooted in exclusionary practices. Movements like Black Lives Matter in 2020 shed light on the industry’s insufficient efforts to support creatives of color. In response, the Kelly Initiative, a coalition of 250 Black professionals, called out the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) for perpetuating systemic racism. Their letter demanded concrete action to promote Black talent and called for public transparency in diversity data. This sparked the creation of the Black in Fashion Council, aimed at securing opportunities for Black designers, stylists, editors, and media executives in the luxury fashion space.
To challenge these exclusionary practices, fashion brands must be held accountable for their diversity commitments, not just in words but in action. Establishing gender and racial bias mitigation teams that actively seek talent from all backgrounds is a crucial step forward. The beauty of fashion lies in its ability to reflect a multitude of experiences, and it’s imperative that the industry’s gatekeepers acknowledge the contributions of marginalized talent who have long influenced luxury fashion and the trends it thrives on.